Osa Peninsula, end of third day

The highlight of the day today was seeing a three-toed sloth in a tree outside the cabin next door to ours, pointed out by a member of the housekeeping staff. Shuwen got a good digital recording of this slow-moving animal in action. It did not seem so much lazy as deliberate in its movements, or perhaps purposive. We watched it slide along the tree, curl and lift itself around branches, and eat tree leaves methodically, for some twenty minutes before heading up to learn about making a good Peruvian ceviche.

Since we last wrote, we have continued to see interesting flora and fauna in this rainforest, whether that would be the 30+ birds spotted on our evening bird walk or the medicine trail hike this afternoon, during which we learned about various rainforest plant remedies for things such as mosquito bites, open wounds, eye styes, high blood pressure, constipation, diarrhea, aching muscles or sore throats. We also went on a waterfall hike which ended with a refreshing bathing session in the cool spring waters just above the Carbonera River, not to mention another sighting of the fer-de-lance snake and a pair of poison dart frogs (harmless unless eaten, licked, or touched with an open wound).  The days fly by as we take in all of these sights and relax around meals; we are really enjoying this place.

In fact, one of the best things about this resort is the staff. Those who work here are generally happy and eager to serve and help out, and to point out the many things that we stupid tourists might overlook or miss. They are amazingly observant, and have a keen sense for the patterns that exist in these natural surroundings. I call them patterns because they could not possibly know where and how to look without having a firm grasp on the organization of these systems. The guides know where the turquoise cotinga bird is likely to be perching, where the poison dart frog will be hopping about, or where macaws are going to be (though the latter are not so difficult given the raquet they make with their beaks). They tell stories and explain the complex biology of the rainforest ecosystem, including the various scientific theories that attempt to explicate why the sloth buries its feces underground. They are garrulous and fun to talk to about anything from the Costa Rican health insurance system to the government's strategy for protecting the country's biodiversity.